When celebrities wear jewellery creations in front of the world’s press, jewellers and their craft are put into the spotlight. Their creations captivate international audiences with the glimmer of every gem, and with the unique setting of every piece. And this is exactly how the Turkish jewellery house Gilan brought the legacy of Ottoman jewellery making to the world stage, as celebrities including Christina Aguilera, Penelope Cruz and Lucy Liu served as brand ambassadors. The pieces they wore to red carpet events were often inspired by romantic myths and legends, and created with 15th Century techniques. This suggests that Ottoman-inspired jewellery is gaining its own spotlight in the realm of luxury goods, as a new wave of jewellers seek prominence in the Occident.
Turkey, once the heart of the Ottoman Empire, has a long history of jewellery making. Its jewellery historically represented the mystery, seduction and romance of the East. Sovereigns, aristocrats and notable women of the Harem famously wore luxurious jewellery, as it often represented one’s wealth and social status. As the jewellery trade flourished during the 15th and 16th Centuries with the expansion of the Empire, a noticeable Ottoman aesthetic developed. Colour, strict symmetry and the natural state of a stone or metal were typical, as were natural motifs.[1] Symmetry, intricacy and vibrancy thus characterised Ottoman jewellery.
Today, these age-old traditions and techniques are still being employed, as jewellers aim to preserve their craft. The Istanbul goldsmith Sevan Biçakçihas been credited with reinvigorating and perpetuating his artistic and cultural heritage by telling the story of Istanbul through his jewellery. He integrates different aspects of Ottoman artistry with miniature paintings, unique gem settings, calligraphy, mosaics and engravings in his work.[2] The jewellery brand Urart even works alongside the Istanbul Archaeological Museum to ensure the authenticity of its designs, which are inspired by the ancient civilisations of Anatolia. Its Love Tablet series, for example, incorporates reproductions of ancient Hittite cuneiform tablets in precious metals.[3] Reflecting a bygone era through aesthetic brilliance in jewellery making, traditional Ottoman-inspired pieces are becoming ever more coveted by customers worldwide.
Turkish jewellery houses increasingly aim to share their craft with worldwide audiences. The Istanbul-based Altinbas Jewellery Company seeks to become a global player, and currently operates 110 stores in Turkey, Eastern and Central Europe. Owning up to 88% of the Turkish jewellery market, it is the only Turkish jewellery brand to become a member of the World Jewellery Confederation having established itself in the exchange of gold.[4] Gilan aims to be one of the first Eastern jewellery companies to be renowned in the West, with a store in New York and a sales platform at the Ritz Carlton in Paris.[5] As jewellers aim to captivate affluent customers through the beauty, craft and unique history of Ottoman jewellery, the future growth potential of the Turkish jewellery industry seems clear.
World-renowned jewellery houses including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Graff Diamonds might typically be European, but Turkish jewellers are gaining the spotlight. Ottoman jewellery making techniques may be 600 years old, but the unique beauty and aesthetics of the pieces prove timeless today.
[1] http://www.turkishculture.org/traditional-arts/turkish-culture-portal-149.htm
[2] V. Becker, Vanity Fair: On Jewellery, August 2015
[3] J. Chrusciel, Global Blue City Guide, 2012 http://www.globalblue.com/destinations/turkey/istanbul/istanbuls-top-five-jewellery-brands/
[4] Altinbas, http://www.altinbas.bg/cms.php?id_cms=4, Eat Love Savour Magazine, http://www.eatlovesavor.com/altinbas-jewelry-born-turkish-family-s-60-year-faith-entrepreneurship-innovation/
[5] J. Sims, The National UAE, 2014 http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/fashion/turkeys-gilan-creates-unique-jewellery-inspired-from-the-15th-century http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/fashion/turkeys-gilan-creates-unique-jewellery-inspired-from-the-15th-century
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